Frequently Asked Questions:
Metal Teeter (See-Saw) Base



Here you will find commonly asked questions and shipping information about the Competition Adjustable Steel See-Saw base. Drop us a line if you have any questions or comments - we appreciate your input!



Q. "How does the board attach to the base & how easy is it?"

A. There is no assembly required for the base itself...it is all ready to attach to the plank. To complete the teeter, you will need a plank. You can buy our aluminum teeter plank, or do it yourself! After you have the plank and the base, attaching the plank to the base, or removing the plank from the base, is quick and easy. All you have to do to separate the base and plank is pull the hinge pin. Back to Top »



Q. "How sturdy is this base as compared to another material, such as wood, and how does it compare to other competition bases?"

A. There is no standard for the weight of the base, and our steel-style is common in trials. The only requirement is that the center of the base has to be visible to the dog (in other words, sticking out from the sides of the board at the pivot point so they can tell they are approaching a see-saw). It also has to have a 3lb-3second rule. (A 3lb weight set 12" from the end has to make the board fall in less than 3 seconds). Our base meets all these specifications. Because this base is made of steel, and not wood, it does tend to have a little more "bounce" and a metal-sounding "jingle" when the board hits the ground. This is not uncommon. I was at a trial recently which was using this base. They alleviated the bounce by a couple tent stakes that held each side of the base feet into the ground. Sandbags would also work. You can also attach something soft on the underside of the board on each end to soften the impact. You can do all this if desired, but many trainers recommend practicing on safe equipment that is a little bouncy and noisy. This prepares the dog mentally to expect the unexpected in obstacles. Back to Top »



Q. "How is the height adjusted?"

A. There is a chain (included) that goes across the bottom of the base. By simply unclipping and adjusting the length of the chain, the height of the see-saw is affected. There is enough chain to make the see-saw go as low as 12" from the ground. Back to Top »



Q. "Is the bottom of the base supposed to have that small bend in it?"

A. YES, the slightly angled bottom makes it so the base can stand up on uneven surfaces without wobbling. Back to Top »



Q. "What is the Stabilizer Bar?"

A. You may quickly and easily move the teeter by removing the plank from the base using the quick release hinge. Though moving the teeter is faster if two people are available. When moving it with two people, one of the difficulties with adjustable bases that use a chain is moving the unit around a course. When you lift the board, the base flops shut. Instead, insert the chain into this bar, and the base will stay open. Click here for picture. Back to Top »



Q. "What exactly must I get to complete this obstacle?"

To complete the teeter, you will need a plank. You can buy our aluminum teeter plank, or make your own plank. Making your own plank can save you money. Included with the base are step-by-step instructions for making your own plank. Below is a list of what you will need to buy at your local hardware store:
  • 2"x12"x12' wood board
    This is a common lumber board. The actual dimensions of it will be approximately 1-1/2" x 11-1/2" x 12feet. Do not get pressure-treated boards, as they are much too heavy. A regular construction grade board works perfect.

  • Paint
    You will need yellow paint for the "contact zones", and some other contrasting color of your choice for the center part (usually blue). A 1/2 gallon is all you need for each color. Many paint stores and larger home & garden stores have miss-matched "oops" paints for $3-4 a gallon. You might be able to at least find a nice color for the center part of the board (and maybe yellow, if you're really lucky). Exterior paint is recommended. Gloss is not recommended (too slippery). Latex paint is also recommended over oil, as it features easy water clean-up. An exterior latex flat or satin paint will work perfect.

  • Sand
    Sand is used for traction. After you put a first coat of paint on the board, while it is still wet, you will pour sand all over the top side of the board. Then you will tip the board over to let all of the excess sand fall off. After the first coat has dried, the remaining sand will be infused into the first coat. Then you can put one more coat of paint on the board. We recommend a bag of 'play sand', as it is clean and has a fine grade consistency.

  • Drill with drill bit
    You will need this to drill the holes in the board for the 4 bolts that hold the hinge plate to the board. You can drill these holes before or after you paint it. The bolts and wing nuts are included with the base.

    Note: Slats are no longer allowed on the See-saw Board (AKC rules) Back to Top »



    Q. "Do I attach the base in the exact center of the board?"

    A. You want the board to fall back into its original position after a dog goes over it. That's because in a trial, for example, all the dogs will be approaching the teeter from the same side. You don't want to have to keep sending people back out to adjust it. So, the board should return to its original position. To aid in this, we suggest putting the base on a little off-center, by about 2 inches. However, sometimes boards are naturally heavy on one half than the other (because of knotting and grain density), so don't put your drill away until you've tested it. You might have to adjust it so the board always falls to the same side. You may also attach some weight to the underside of the board to fine tune it. Back to Top »



    Q. "What can I expect in shipping?"

    A. This is for the base only. This obstacle has to ship separately from other obstacles. The dimensions when folded up and packaged, is considered "oversized" by UPS, but we worked hard to keep the dimensions such that it stays within "level 1" instead of "level 2" in their oversized rating system. The following list will give you a general idea of what you can expect. (domestic only. Hawaii & Alaska needs special quotes, as does Canada and other countries. If you need a quote, please email us your address.)

    Zip Codes starting w/ 0 $15.25
    Zip Codes starting w/ 1 $14.53
    Zip Codes starting w/ 2 $17.25
    Zip Codes starting w/ 3 $20.25
    Zip Codes starting w/ 4 $16.91
    Zip Codes starting w/ 5 $22.46
    Zip Codes starting w/ 6 $23.23
    Zip Codes starting w/ 7 $23.29
    Zip Codes starting w/ 8 $25.50
    Zip Codes starting w/ 9 $29.37


    Back to Top »



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