To complete the teeter, you will need a plank. You can buy our aluminum teeter plank, or make your own plank. Making your own plank can save you money. Included with the base are step-by-step instructions for making your own plank. Below is a list of what you will need to buy at your local hardware store:

• 2"x12"x12' wood board
  Finding the right wood board at your local home improvement store is easy. The board to get is common framing lumber. It is the same wood that contractors would use for framing a deck or house. The type of wood is relatively unimportant. Pine is fine, hemlock fir, etc. Though, pressure treated is not suggested, as these have a tendency to be VERY heavy, and really don’t need to be pressure treated anyhow, as you will be painting it. The trick is finding a decent piece out of the stack that isn't overly warped or cracked. Though it doesn't need to be perfect, as a coat of paint goes a long way. Depending on your need for this obstacle, you can get a 8', 10', 12' long, etc. If they don’t have the smaller size you are looking for, get longer and cut down the length (sometimes home improvement stores will cut it for you). In regards to the width and thickness of the board, common framing lumber is 'labeled', or referred to by numbers that are rounded up to a whole number. For example, 2"x12"x(length) has an actual measurement of approximately 1-1/2"x11-1/2"x(length). Or a 2"x10"x(length) has actual of approximately 1-1/2"x9-1/2"x(length). This is okay, they will work great for your obstacle. Choose your board width (i.e. 10" or 12") and length (i.e. 8', 10', or 12') in accordance to the obstacle being made, and as called out in assembly instructions provided with your obstacle, or as specified here.
  
  
• Paint
  You will need yellow paint for the contact zones, and some other contrasting color of your choice for the center part (usually blue). A 1/2 gallon is all you need for each color. Many paint stores and larger home & garden stores have miss-matched "oops" paints for $3-4 a gallon. You might be able to at least find a nice color for the center part of the board (and maybe yellow, if you're really lucky). Exterior paint is recommended. Gloss is not recommended (too slippery). Latex paint is also recommended over oil, as it features easy water clean-up. An exterior latex flat or satin paint will work perfect.
  
  
• Sand
  Sand is used for traction. After you put a first coat of paint on the board, while it is still wet, you will pour sand all over the top side of the board. Then you will tip the board over to let all of the excess sand fall off. After the first coat has dried, the remaining sand will be infused into the first coat. Then you can put one more coat of paint on the board. We recommend a bag of 'play sand', as it is clean and has a fine grade consistency.
  
  
• Drill with drill bit
  You will need this to drill the holes in the board for the 4 bolts that hold the hinge plate to the board. You can drill these holes before or after you paint it. The bolts and wing nuts are included with the base. You want the board to fall back into its original position after a dog goes over it. That's because in a trial, for example, all the dogs will be approaching the teeter from the same side. You don't want to have to keep sending people back out to adjust it. So the board should return to its original position. To aid in this, we suggest putting the board on a little off-center by about 2 inches. However, sometimes boards are naturally heavy on one half than the other (because of knotting and grain density), so don't put your drill away until you've tested it. You might have to adjust it so the board always falls to the same side. You may also attach some weight to the underside of the board to fine tune it.
  
  
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