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  Adjustable See-Saw Info. Page...

Here you will find commonly asked questions and shipping information about the Competition Adjustable Steel See-Saw base.  Drop us a line if you have any questions or comments - we appreciate your input!


Q. "What exactly must I get to complete this obstacle?"

A.  The following is a list.  Everything else we include (including sand and hardware).  You can print this page out to get your supplies early, but we will send this information again when you get the base.

  1. 2"x12'x12" Board (2 inches thick, 12 feet long, and 12" wide). 
    You should be able to pick one of these up at a lumber store or home & garden store for under $15.  Do  not get pressure-treated boards, as they are much too heavy.  A regular hem fir board works perfect.  

  2. Exterior Paint. (for the Board - the base is already painted)
    You will need yellow paint for the "contact zones", and some other contrasting color of your choice for the center part.  A 1/2 gallon is all you need for each color.  Many paint stores and larger home & garden stores have mis-matched "oops" paints for $3-4 a gallon.  You might be able to at least find a nice color for the center part of the board (and maybe yellow, if you're really lucky).  Exterior paint is recommended.  Gloss is not recommended (too slippery).  Latex paint is also recommended over oil, as it features easy water clean-up.

  3. Drill with 17/64 Drill Bit (for drilling the holes in the board for the 4 bolts)

        Note: Slats are no longer allowed on the See-saw Board (AKC rules)


Q. "How does the board attach to the base & how easy is it?"

A.  There is no assembly required for the base itself...it is all ready to attach to the board.  All you have to do is drill 4 holes through a wood board to bolt the base to the board. The top of our see-saw base has a flat metal plate that rotates on a pivot.  You will take your board, lay it upside down, then open the steel base and lay it on top.  You will mark the holes (by tracing through the holes already drilled in the metal plate), then drill them with a drill.  Then you simply slip the bolts through and tighten with the nuts.  It's all very easy, and along with all the hardware, we include visual step-by-step instructions.  IF YOU WANT TO SEE A DRAWING OF HOW TO ATTACH IT, CLICK HERE.


Q. "Do I attach the base in the exact center of the board?"

A.  You want the board to fall back into its original position after a dog goes over it.  That's because in a trial, for example, all the dogs will be approaching the teeter from the same side.  You don't want to have to keep sending people back out to adjust it.  So, the board should return to its original position.  To aid in this, we suggest putting the base on a little off-center, by about 2 inches.  However, sometimes boards are are naturally heavy on one half than the other (because of knotting and grain density), so don't put your drill away until you've tested it.  You might have to adjust it so the board always falls to the same side. 


Q. "How is the height adjusted?"

A.  There is a chain (included) that goes across the bottom of the base.  By simply unclipping and adjusting the length of the chain, the height of the see-saw is affected.  There is enough chain to make the see-saw go as low as 12" from the ground. 


Q. "How sturdy is this base as compared to another material, such as wood, and how does it compare to competition bases?"

A.  There is no standard for the weight of the base, and our steel-style is common in trials. The only requirement is that the center of the base has to be visible to the dog (in other words, sticking out from the sides of the board at the pivot point so they can tell they are approaching a see-saw).  It also has to have a 3lb-3second rule.  (A 3lb weight set 12" from the end has to make the board fall in less than 3 seconds).  Our base meets all these specifications.

Because this base is made of steel, and not wood, it does tend to have a little more "bounce" and a metal-sounding "jingle" when the board hits the ground.  This is not uncommon.  I was at a trial recently which was using this base.  They alleviated the bounce by a couple tent stakes that held each side of the base feet into the ground. (Sandbags would also work) You can also attach something soft on the underside of the board on each end to soften the impact.  You can do all this if desired, but many trainers recommend practicing on safe equipment that is a little bouncy and noisy.  This prepares the dog mentally to expect the unexpected in obstacles.


Q. "Is the bottom of the base supposed to have that small bend in it?"

A.  YES, the slightly angled bottom makes it so the base can stand up on uneven surfaces without wobbling.


Q. "What is the Stabilizer Bar that comes free with it?"

A.  This is a new added feature.  One of the difficulties with adjustable bases that use a chain is moving the unit around a course.  When you lift the board, the base flops shut.  Instead, insert the chain into this bar, and the base will stay open.  See picture to right, or click here for larger photo.


Q. "What can I expect in shipping?"

A.  This obstacle has to ship separately from other obstacles.  The dimensions when folded up and packaged, is considered "oversized" by UPS, but we worked hard to keep the dimensions such that it stays within  "level 1" instead of "level 2" in their oversized rating system.  The following list will give you a general idea of what you can expect. (domestic only.  Hawaii & Alaska needs special quotes, as does Canada and other countries.  If you need a quote, please email us your address.)

Zip Codes starting w/ 0 $14.50
Zip Codes starting w/ 1   13.60 
Zip Codes starting w/ 2   14.50
Zip Codes starting w/ 3   18.90
Zip Codes starting w/ 4   14.50
Zip Codes starting w/ 5   18.90
Zip Codes starting w/ 6   15.90
Zip Codes starting w/ 7   21.50
Zip Codes starting w/ 8   21.50
Zip Codes starting w/ 9   24.90

 

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